Washes — also called shades — are thinned, flow-improving paints that settle into recesses and shadow areas automatically, adding depth and definition to miniatures with minimal effort. A single wash coat after basecoating can transform a flat, one-dimensional model into something with convincing shadow and detail. This guide covers exactly how to use washes on miniatures, which washes to use for which surfaces, and how to fix common problems.
What Are Washes?
A wash is a very thinned paint mixed with a flow improver (surface tension reducer) that causes it to flow away from raised areas and pool into recesses. Applied over a basecoat, it automatically creates shadow in panel lines, scales, armour joints, and face details without needing to carefully paint shadows by hand. The wash dries darker in recesses (where it pools) and lighter on raised surfaces (where it flows away), adding the illusion of depth in a single coat.
Games Workshop calls their washes Shades. Army Painter calls theirs Quickshade Washes. Vallejo produces Washes in their paint range. All work on the same principle; the specific formula differences affect flow behaviour and final sheen.
The Most Important Washes
Nuln Oil (Citadel) — The Universal Black Shade
Nuln Oil is the most widely used wash in the hobby community. Its cold, near-black tone makes it ideal for metallic surfaces: silver armour, iron weapons, and steel equipment all benefit enormously from a Nuln Oil wash, which darkens recesses and gives metals the gritty, used look that flat silver cannot achieve on its own. Nuln Oil also works on dark armour, black cloth, and any surface where you want deep, dark shadows. Available in standard pots at most hobby retailers.
Agrax Earthshade (Citadel) — The Universal Brown Shade
Agrax Earthshade is a warm brown wash often called “Liquid Talent” in the hobby community — because it makes almost everything look better immediately. Applied over skintones, earth colours, gold, leather, and bone, Agrax adds warm shadow that looks natural and convincing. It is the most versatile wash for general miniature painting. Most painters own Agrax Earthshade as part of their core wash collection.
Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel) — For Skin and Gold
Reikland Fleshshade is a warm orange-pink wash specifically formulated for skin tones and gold metallics. Over flesh-coloured base paints, it adds convincing warm shadow that reads as natural skin tone shading. Over gold paint (Retributor Armour or equivalent), it darkens recesses and gives gold armour an aged, worn quality. Reikland is the recommended wash for Stormcast Eternals gold armour in virtually every GW tutorial.
Druchii Violet (Citadel) — Purple Shade
A cool purple wash that works beautifully on white surfaces, pale skin, and bone. Applied over white or off-white, Druchii Violet creates purple-tinted shadows that read as cool, natural shade. Many painters use Druchii Violet on bone and skeleton models to add ethereal depth to the yellowed bone colour.
How to Apply Washes: Step by Step
- Start with a fully dried basecoat. Applying wash over wet or damp paint causes the wash to lift the basecoat. Wait until the basecoat is completely dry.
- Load the brush generously. Unlike regular paint, you want a well-loaded brush for washing — the wash needs enough fluid volume to flow properly. Use a medium-sized brush (size 1–2) for most areas.
- Apply to the recessed areas. Flow the wash into the recesses and panel lines of the model. You can apply it broadly across a surface area and let it flow naturally, or apply it precisely with a finer brush directly into specific recesses.
- Remove excess pooling (optional). If the wash pools heavily on flat surfaces (shoulder pads, large armour plates), use a clean, lightly damp brush to pick up the excess before it dries. This prevents tide marks — visible rings where the wash dried at the edge of a pool.
- Let it dry completely. Washes take longer to dry than regular paint. Wait 15–30 minutes (longer in humid conditions) before the next stage. Wet washes disturbed by subsequent painting can streak badly.
- Re-highlight after washing (optional). After the wash dries, the basecoat colour on raised surfaces will be slightly darkened by the wash. You can re-apply the base colour to the raised surfaces to restore the original vibrancy, leaving the wash visible only in recesses. This extra step significantly improves the final result.
Common Wash Mistakes
Tide Marks
Tide marks are visible rings on flat surfaces where the wash dried at its own edge — leaving a dark circle that looks artificial. They occur when too much wash is applied to a large flat area and left to dry without intervention. Prevention: use a clean, barely damp brush to pick up excess pooling before it dries. Fix: re-apply the basecoat colour to the affected area, feathering it into the surrounding paint.
Applying Over Wet Paint
Applying a wash over a still-wet basecoat causes the wash to lift and mix with the base colour, creating uneven, streaky results. Always let the basecoat cure fully before washing. If you are impatient, a hairdryer on low heat (not too close) speeds up drying without baking the paint.
Using the Wrong Wash Colour
A black shade (Nuln Oil) over flesh-coloured skin creates grey, unhealthy-looking shadows. A brown shade (Agrax) over silver metal looks muddy rather than dirty. Match the wash colour to the surface: brown/warm washes for organic surfaces (skin, leather, wood, bone, gold), black washes for metals (silver, steel, iron), purple or blue washes for cool-tone surfaces (white, pale skin, undead).
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a wash as the only technique on a miniature?
Yes — basecoat plus wash is a viable and widely used two-step technique for tabletop-standard miniatures. Apply your basecoats, apply the appropriate wash over each colour area, and let it dry. The result is not as refined as a full base-shade-highlight workflow, but it produces models that look painted and distinct from a few feet away — perfectly acceptable for gaming armies.
What is the difference between Citadel Shades and Army Painter washes?
Both work on the same principle but have different formula characteristics. Citadel Shades have a glossy finish when dry (they go matte after varnishing). Army Painter Quickshade Washes dry with a slightly more matte finish. Citadel Shades have a slightly more controlled flow on smooth surfaces; Army Painter washes are slightly more forgiving with tide marks. Either works well; choose based on which paint range you primarily use.
Do I need to varnish after washing?
Citadel Shades dry with a glossy finish that you will want to flatten with a matte varnish before calling a model done. Army Painter washes dry more matte and may not need additional varnishing before the finish step, but a protective varnish coat is always recommended for models that will be handled. See our varnish guide for product recommendations.
For more technique guides, see our drybrushing guide y best paints for miniatures.